Why do you need an automatic water shut off valve?
Amazingly, most plumbing problems occur when you are away from home. You come back to a mess that wasn't there when you left.
You had a leak detector, you just weren't there to hear it.
Water detectors are great for incidental accidentals like doggy bowl mishaps or Christmas tree overflows.
But if there's a water supply line involved, your leak detector must also be an automatic water shut off valve.
Otherwise, wood floor water damage just goes from bad to worse, and quick, (sheetrock, insulation, subflooring, furnishings, heirlooms...)
These cost more, of course. So, consider these ABC's, before you buy.
This was the first automatic shut off valve I purchased for my home, and have never felt the need to buy anything else.
They run on AC current, but also have battery backup in case of a power outage.
When designing your system, you may be interested to know that extension wires are available, and that an additional sensor can be purchased and added to double your coverage with a single valve.
(So long as both appliances share the same main supply to be shut off when necessary.)
is a whole house/zoned water shut off system. It utilizes a full port ball valve with actuator (The WaterCop)
that responds to radio signals from either a WaterHound Sensor, or a FreezeHound, OR BOTH.
Water shut off is almost instantaneous when sensors are activated, Alarms sound at the sensors, as well.
The sensors require either AC or DC power, which is nice when power supply options are limited.
The moisture sensors come with a single probe or two probes connected to one radio device.
Place the sensors under refrigerators, dishwashers, water heaters, washing machines
within 200 feet of The WaterCop valve.
Program up to 48 possible codes in to one WaterCop for, potentially, 48 different zones.
This makes it the best automatic water shut off valve for condo associations that want to shut off the affected unit's supply while leaving unaffected units on.
Multi-unit property owners appreciate the scalability and zone-ability of the WaterCop.
Professional installation of a WaterCop takes 1-2 hours and is recommended, but not necessary.
Assess your liabilities. What you stand to lose in the event of a plumbing failure.
Don't just consider your wood floor problems, because they'll be just one item on a very long list: sheetrock, insulation, etc.
Budget and maybe consider borrowing. You know what's best.
Even a small battery operated water alarm is better than none, at all.
However, I have met a lot of heart ache and it is my strong recommendation to spare no expense.
If money is tight, but you would prefer a whole house system. Then build it a component or two at a time.
Construct from a design that considers two things:
-the size of existing plumbing fittings
-the power supply.
My recommendation is to make the investment in automatic water shutoff valves and write water alarm language into your contracts
just as you would for smoke alarms.
The reality is if the top unit has a water leak, so does every unit below it.
And those units have ceilings affected, not just floors. Ideally, we want a water alarm and/or an automatic water shut off valve in place as insurance.
And what's the best insurance? (Just like a best water alarm...)
It's the insurance you never need!
Inspect your plumbing, and hire a pro, if need be.
Update your plumbing, and hire a pro, if need be.
Purchase safeguards like the
dishwasher leak pan.
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